Links to the Italy Blog Series:
Italy Part 1: Venice and Trento
Italy part 2: Pisa and Lucca
Italy part 3: Cinque Terre (post 1 of 2)
Italy part 4: Cinque Terre (post 2 of 2)
Italy part 5: Naples and Capri
Italy part 6: Positano
Italy part 7: Rome
We slept in until 9:30 (ahh!) and then headed by train to Sorrento. It was one of the more boring train rides, and to be honest, we were just really excited to get to Positano. That being said, we saw a really strange gypsy kid that was about 8 years old going from car to car playing the accordion, randomly serenading people, waiting for tips. It was actually quite awkward. We learned very quickly in Italy that you just don’t make eye contact. I would have gotten video of him, but I didn’t want to have to pay him money.
We got off the train in Sorrento, then boarded a bus from Sorrento to Positano, as that is the recommendation (and really one of the only ways) to get to Positano. If you ever go, *sit on the right side of the bus*! It’s very important, as that is the side that you will get the best views of the water on the way to Positano (the first photo shows 2 islands; we later boated between them). One of the other interesting things we noticed was how many Vespa-type vehicles are there. It really makes a lot of sense when there isn’t much road space (check out the 2nd photo- the car takes up WAY more parking room).
Also, you really have to admire the abilities of the bus drivers on these winding, narrow cliffs. It is frightening, and awesomely impressive.
Positano is quite small. You can walk the main road (which is shaped like a horse shoe around the cliff) in about 15-20 minutes. We stayed at the Hotel Marincanto (which translates to “Sea Song”). This hotel was our biggest splurge in all of Italy, but it was entirely worth it. Our hotel had a living room with a balcony, a bedroom with a balcony, a bathroom with a nice stand-up shower, and a walk in closet with a jacuzzi tub. Our hotel is the series of yellow buildings below. Again, since they are on a cliff, the hotel has to be split into several levels. In the second photo, Mike is sitting on one of our balconets.
*** Update*** See the first comment at the bottom of the blog for a more detailed explanation of our hotel’s name from someone who knows Italian a lot better than me!
We decided to walk around the city and just appreciate the Italian life. They seem to really enjoy the outdoors so much more than we do. We had a roadside snack (all of the restaurants are on the cliff, so all of the meals are near the road), and just watched the boats docked in the water, and soaked up some sun.
The day was still sunny enough that we decided to try the pool. It’s the only infinity pool I’ve been in (though there were a few plants that were kind of marring the “infinity” idea). It was actually much too cold to be swimming, but we wanted to enjoy the amenities.
On our way to meet Timon and Becky (remember the Americans we met in the Cinque Terre?) for dinner, we left early and did some window shopping. I paid homage to an old photo my dad took in the early ’80′s when I saw a large anchor. We greeted our friends and started walking to find the place their hotel (the Hotel Poseidon) had recommended for dinner, and along the way found a sampling of some of the HUGE lemons that grow in that area. It is what the liquor drink Lemoncello is made from, and this region is famous for it. I thought they were a little bitter to the smell, myself, and the smell easily got on your hands when you picked one up.
I don’t remember the name of the place that we ate, only that it had a spectacular view of the water. And one of the worst “house” wines that we had ordered our entire time. It was a sparkling red, which we weren’t prepared for, but now we will know to ask. At dinner, we compared room keys. The keys in Positano were just as cool as the key that we had from our hotel in Lucca.
We walked around that night and grabbed some dessert at a place where we heard some musician playing. I think it was called La Zagara, and the only photo I took wasn’t really that interesting. In my memory, though, it was a wonderful and relaxing evening. We said our good evenings, and decided that the next day we would find a boat for the four of us to rent, so that we could tour the coast line.
We slept with the windows (that were doors) open. The waves lulled us to sleep. The view that we woke up to was one that was hard to forget. And one I’d love to see again.
We enjoyed our hotel breakfast, walked around the property, and took the private staircase all the way down to the beach to find who had the best boat rates. We really didn’t care how “nice” the boat was. We just wanted to see the coast. It was a good decision to save money on the boat, so that we could spend it somewhere else that we would enjoy more (like Italian food!!!). Timon and Becky came to meet us, and we set off on our trip. One of our goals was to find the “Smerelda Grotto”, but we never did find it. :/
Might I add here: Becky had just heard that Kim Kardashian had recently honeymooned as well on the Amalfi (while we had been in Italy, in fact!), and was annoyed that Kim was clearly copying her honeymoon. Haha. I guess it didn’t work out quite as well for Kim. She should have stayed in Positano, I guess!
They let me drive the boat!!! Who’s terrible idea was that?!?!? I was terrified, to be honest.
All of us were starved, and we saw a place that was a “boat-up” restaurant called “Capo di Conca”. While the food was average, it was neat to just boat up to a restaurant after a day on the water. And probably the best part of the place was that there was a little diving area that you could leap into the water. So, of course, we did. By the way, our rental boat is the one you can see on the right side of the photo.
We headed back to the hotel to take one final swim in our pool, as we were leaving in the morning (don’t mind the water drops on my camera).
We went to get a massage at the hotel Poseidon (which wasn’t very good, in my opinion), and had an excellent dinner at a place called Bruno. It was fun to watch the waiters have to cross the street to deliver the food, since dining was outdoors, but across the street from the restaurant kitchen. After a nap, Timon and Becky rejoined us at our hotel room, and we shared a bottle of Amalfi wine (and some of our leftover Cinque Terre Schiaccetra wine) before saying goodnight, with a promise to meet them one last time in Rome.
Mike headed to a local dessert shop to grab some cannoli’s for the train ride in the morning. I can’t tell you how great of an idea that was. The cannoli in Positano was amazing.
We were really sad to leave. Of our entire vacation, and of all of the many cities we visited, Positano felt the most relaxing. If you even have one day to stay on the Amalfi coast, try Positano. You won’t be diappointed. It has a resort-y feel, and all of the resort luxuries, without compromising any of the native beauty and charm of the area.
We’re nearly at the end of our honeymoon! I might actually finish the series before our next anniversary! Haha… (no, seriously). Stay tuned for part 7: Rome!